Dawn to Dusk at the Kalamazoo Farmers Market

Rejoice, for springtime is here! The arduous, soul-crushing slog through winter is behind us! And while there are ample reasons to be excited about the upcoming months of warm weather, let us start by appreciating one of the truly great springtime rituals: the opening of the Kalamazoo Farmers Market. After five agonizing months, the outdoor market reopens this coming Saturday! 

There are few institutions that I cherish more than the Kalamazoo Farmers Market. For years I’ve been making the weekly pilgrimage (typically by bicycle) every Saturday morning starting in May and ending in November. Only an out-of-town vacation or a debilitating sickness can keep me from a market Saturday. And while the market is certainly a convenient place to buy fresh, local produce and meats, it also serves as a social event, a weekly community gathering where one enjoys seeing friends and acquaintances from around the Kalamazoo area. You could even say the farmers market is my church. But instead of communion bread and wine I have an almond croissant and iced coffee.

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The Market opens May 4th and runs every Saturday through November. Starting in June, the market is also open on Tuesdays from 8:00 am to 1:00 pm and on Thursdays from 2:00 pm to 6:00 pm.

Though the market is open from 7:00 am to 2:00 pm each Saturday, I aim to arrive between 9:00 am and 10:30. I realized in all my years of attending the market I’ve never seen what happens at 7:00 am. How do the vendors set up? Are there many customers that early? I’ve also never been at the market much later than noon. Do people actually show up as late as 1:45? What does the ebb and flow of a seven-hour market day feel like? With these questions in mind, I decided one Saturday to spend the entire day at the market. Here is my experience:

Saturday, August 18, 2018

5:50 am
My alarm goes off and I immediately hit snooze.

5:59 am
My alarm goes off again. This time I force myself to roll out of bed and search my floordrobe for something to wear.

6:07 am 
I’m riding my bike on the dark, empty streets of Kalamazoo’s Edison Neighborhood. Though I’m half asleep, I take time to appreciate the aura of my quiet pre-dawn neighborhood. Cars are absent. The only sounds are the soft clicking of my bicycle and the wind on my face.

6:15 am
I arrive at the farmers market only fifteen minutes later than I had intended. I park my bike, sit at an empty picnic table, and say to myself, “Why on earth am I awake right now? This is ridiculous. Dan you do silly things sometimes.”

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Before the sun crests the horizon, vendors prepare their tables.

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If a vendor isn’t located under the pavilion, they need to set up their own tent in the courtyard area.

6:17 am
About twenty vendors are setting up. Most of them are under the pavilion but a few tents are going up in the
courtyard. The sky is still dark but there are big lights illuminating the market. The horizon shows a faint glow in the East. I’m tired but the vibe here is mega-positive. Dave from Young Earth Farms is blasting R&B Oldies from a portable stereo. Not one person looks depressed, which is unusual for a large group of people starting work at six in the morning.

6:20 am
God I want coffee. And food. But mostly coffee.

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An overhead map of the market

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An overhead photo of the market courtyard

6:30 am
Cars are constantly pulling in to the courtyard and around the pavilion to set up their tables. The People’s Food Co-op (PFC) staff are cleaning and setting up waste pods. I feel out of place because I’m literally the only person here who is not working. I decide to awkwardly play on my phone and avoid eye contact with everyone.

6:45 am
The sky is brightening. The sunrise is scheduled for 6:52. I’m more of an evening crepuscular, but I do enjoy my rare experiences in the morning twilight.

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Thirty minutes from now there will be no room for cars in here. Better hurry!

6:51 am
Activity in the courtyard is hectic. About 80% of the spots are filled. Cars are unloading everywhere and people
are bustling to set up tents and tables. I’m just trying to stay out of everyone’s way.

6:52 am
All I can think about is what I’m gonna eat first because I’m sooooo hungry.

6:56 am
I see the first people who appear to be customers, though the market doesn’t officially open for four more minutes.

6:58 am
I see a handful of customers carrying reusable bags and purchasing market bucks. It is officially time to buy a coffee.

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So. Much. Produce!

Market Vocabulary:

  • PFC – People’s Food Co-Op. In 2013 the city commissioned PFC to manage the market.
  • Market Bucks – Uh-oh. Didn’t bring cash? (Many vendors don’t take cards.) You can run your debit card at the PFC booth and get Market Bucks in return. These work as cash in the market. And, unlike most ATMs, there’s no fee.
  • Pavillion – The area underneath the permanent, metal-roofed structure.
  • Courtyard – The inner-area of the market, used for picnic tables and vendors with tents.
  • Foodtruck Alley – Row of delicious food trucks in back of the market. (See map).
  • Bike Benefits – A sticker for you bike helmet that gets you discounts at participating businesses (including the Kalamazoo Farmers Market).
  • Night Market – Once a month the market opens in the evening, selling wine and draft beer along with a stable of great vendors.

 

7:01 am
There are 26 tents in the courtyard. The market is officially open, though many vendors are still setting up. I sympathize with those who struggle to be punctual.

7:21 am
I finally buy a coffee from Simpatico Coffee. (Yes, I planned to buy a coffee at 6:58 am but then I spent twenty minutes getting caught up on twitter. Damn phones.) The market is now in full swing and I no longer feel awkward about being here.

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The cars are gone and the courtyard is filled with vendors.

7:24 am
Mamaleelu just strolled in and I’m so excited to get an iced latte later. I want some hot food but there are not many options this early. Croissants and breakfast sandwiches are my go-to but neither of them are available yet.

7:26 am
I have to move out of the way so the PFC staff can put an umbrella on my picnic table. Umbrellas aren’t useful now but when the midday sun hits we’ll be thankful.

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Brown eggs, white eggs, goose eggs – you’ll find any kind of egg you could want!

7:37 am
Mamaleelu sees me and asks, “Did you have to suffer through drinking a hot coffee because I was late?” “Not suffering,” I tell her, “preparing.”

7:42 am
I go to the PFC desk to pick up my bike benefits token. This is a $2.00 token given to any cyclist who bikes to the market. You first need to purchase a benefits sticker for your bike helmet. The sticker only costs $5.00 and I’ve used at least $40.00 in bike benefit tokens. You can’t beat that deal and you can’t beat biking! 

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Biking to the market is vastly superior to driving. There’s always a place to park right up front!

Market Fact
PFC staff tells me only five to ten people utilize the bike benefits each Saturday. That is crazy. Way more than
ten cyclists attend the market. Use the bike benefits people! The tokens even work for booze at the Night Market!

7:51 am
I’m dying for an almond croissant from Sarkozy’s Bakery. Judy Sarkozy has her tent up but there aren’t any croissants so I buy one from a different vendor. It turns out to be a decent croissant but I’m loyal to Sarkozy’s for good reason. A Sarkozy croissant is so light and soft you can blow on it and it will break into a million pieces. 

7:57 am
Staff is setting up a tent on the performance stage. I hope someone fun and agreeable is going to perform. Early mornings are not palatable to every type of music.

8:03 am
I buy the first available breakfast sandwich. Mmmm. My tired and hungry body is starting to rejuvenate. An iced latte will complete the process. 

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I needed a breakfast sandwich and this did not disappoint.

8:08 am
The sun crests over the treeline and it looks like we’re in for a hot, sunny August Saturday.

Market Fact
On a typical market Saturday there are about 120 vendors. That number is slightly lower today because a few of the regular vendors are absent.

8:13 am
A van arrives in front of Sarkozy’s and delivers the croissants. 😒 I have learned a valuable lesson about patience and asking questions. Though tempted, I convince myself I really shouldn’t buy a second croissant.

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A deliciously refreshing Iced Latte from Mamaleelu.

8:24 am
I purchase an iced latte from Mamaleelu. This is perhaps my most frequent market purchase. My typical Saturday routine is to park my bike, get a bike benefits token, and go directly to Mamaleelu for coffee.

8:30 am
I walk a lap around the market. The entire scene is positive and relaxed. The walkways aren’t crowded and the weather is great.

8:39 am
A young man is sound-checking his guitar on the performance stage. I wonder if he’ll play a Phish song in tribute to the great Curveball disaster of 2018…

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The sunshine is helping to make the market-goers more vivacious. The sunflowers love it too!

8:43 am
I go behind the pavilion to check out Food Truck Alley. There aren’t many food trucks set up this early. I do see Pachamama and I make a mental note to eat there later.

9:00 am
The once empty picnic tables are now filled with people and the people are FEASTING. Donuts. Croissants. Breakfast Sandwiches. Tacos. Pasties. Food is going into mouths everywhere I look.

9:12 am
Kids are dancing in front of the stage as the musician sings and plays guitar. The music is a bit melancholy for me this morning, but I can’t complain about live music, a great feature of the market.

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I named this guy Johnny Mitchell after hearing his 8th rendition of a Joni Mitchell song.

9:20 am
I walk another lap. The hustle and bustle has definitely increased but the market has yet to reach the category of SUPER crowded—the peak level of congestion officially achieved once I can no longer walk underneath the back pavilion without anyone’s ass touching me.

9:28 am
I buy some chicken breasts from Otto’s chicken. This chicken is my second most frequent market purchase after iced lattes.

9:33 am
I buy my 3rd coffee of the day. (Did I mention I’m only running on about four and a half hours of sleep?)

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This honey vendor brings an enclosed bee hive to the market. It’s always a popular attraction.

9:40 am
There is a little girl with a giant carrot longer than her entire head. She’s holding, eating, and enjoying the carrot as if it were a delicious lollipop. This is the single best thing I’ve seen at the market all year.

9:45 am
My roommate Ken arrives and visits with me. He is in rough shape. Ken is usually bright-eyed and enthusiastic at the Saturday Market so I assume he must have been up all night doing god-knows-what.

10:05 am
More friends show up and we spend a long time sitting at a picnic table, eating good food, listening to the musician’s Joni Mitchell covers, and talking about our lives.

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Mary is sad because she didn’t remember to bring her reusable bags. It’s okay Mary, I forget sometimes too.

10:30 am
I take another lap to finish my shopping. I give my chicken and produce purchases to Ken so he can take my food home and put it in the fridge for me.

10:45 am
It is now the 
peak market hour. This is as crowded as it is going to get.

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This corridor is packed tight at peak hours.

10:50 am
Not done eating yet: I buy some donuts! They fry them right here at the market. Talk about fresh!

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11:12 am
This is starting to feel like a family picnic I’ve been at too long.

11:17 am
The singer finished his set a few minutes ago and there doesn’t appear to be another musical act. I teased Johnny Mitchell earlier but I miss him now that he’s gone. The Market feels less joyous without music.

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It was only with the greatest self-control that I didn’t buy five of these mouth-watering baked goods.

11:35 am
I walk another lap. The market is noticeably slowing down. Peak hours have passed and now the crowds have decreased to a size similar to 8:30.

11:46 am
I’m scolding myself for not bringing a phone charger. Obviously eight straight hours of checking my phone, snapping pictures, and taking notes was going to wear out the battery. My 100% charged battery was down to 20% by 10:00 am.

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Free water to stay hydrated on hot summer days. Free!

Market Quote
I overhear someone in line for a food trucks say:

“This is the nicest farmers market I’ve ever been to.”

11:50 am
The summer heat isn’t a joke. I buy a Belle Vie (La Croix knock-off) from one of the Food Trucks.

12:12 pm
Even the bees have become more lethargic at this point.

12:30 pm
I take another lap and find activity is reeeeeeal slow right now. The current crowd is comparable to the crowd at 7:30 this morning. About 10% of the vendors have left or are in the process of leaving (even though the market is open until 2:00 pm).

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The crowds thin out by noon.

Market Quote
A customer at the Sarkozy booth just said:

“That’s the ONLY kind you have left? Awww!”

Yeah brah, you can’t show up to the market at 12:40 pm and expect to still get an almond croissant.

12:42 pm
There are no customers at the Young Earth Farms booth so I have a chat with Dave. (I feel a tiny bit star-struck because Dave recognizes me and says, “Hey, you’re still here?!”) Half of the items on Dave’s whiteboard have a black line drawn through them, indicating those items are sold out. He tells me his biggest sellers are ground beef, sausage links, and sausage patties. If you want bacon you better arrive early because it sells out by 8:30 or 9:00. “I’d love to sell more,” Dave says, “but there’s only so much bacon on a pig!”

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This is Dave from Young Earth Farms. Do yourself a huge favor and buy meat from Dave.

12:49 pm
Two musicians just showed up at the performance stage and are playing ambient guitar.

12:57 pm
I don’t know why it took me until 12:57 to realize that the market has free wifi. I take my Chromebook from my backpack and check my email because my phone is at 1% battery and has been in airplane mode for over an hour.

1:00 pm
I’m hungry again. I walk a lap to see what I can scrounge up for lunch. There’s still one hour before the market closes but about 50% of the vendors have already packed up.

1:06 pm
I buy a delicious beef salad from the Pachamama food cart. HIGHLY recommended.

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1:09 pm
Several customers recently arrived and are standing in line for market bucks. It seems silly to arrive this late when so many vendors have already departed but there are still a decent number of items available for purchase.

1:19 pm
I’m looking for ways to kill my boredom. Various friends have visited throughout the morning but the last friend left an hour ago and I can’t imagine anyone else is showing up this late. Thankfully Gaby, the Market Manager, approaches me and says, “You have been here ALL day. Weren’t you here early? Like before seven o’clock?” and this leads to a conversation.

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Market Facts
Gaby tells me that once a month 
they count the number of customers throughout the day. The peak time for shopping is 8:30 to 11:00. She wants customers to know that many vendors leave before the market closes and the later you arrive the weaker the selection will be. Gabby also says she wants to encourage more vendors to stay until 2:00 pm moving forward.

1:27 pm 
This ambient guitar is giving a relaxing vibe that pairs well with the slow dismantling of the market. I’ve discovered that the style of music (or lack of music) has a palpable effect on the market’s atmosphere.

1:31 pm
Some local bees have sniffed out the honey vendor and are wildly swarming him and his display. I’m terrified but the vendor appears completely unaffected.

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In addition to produce, meat, and artisan wares, you can also purchase FLOWERS.

1:38 pm
I take one final lap around the market. I count a mere five vendors who are not currently in the process of packing up. Many simultaneously make sales while packing. It’s been a long day and everyone is ready to leave. It’s been a good day, though. People may be tired, but everyone remains in high spirits.

Market Simile
The market disassembles like a melting snowball. At noon the market is full and by 2:00 pm it is empty. This dwindling happens
gradually, melting faster and faster as time passes.

1:47 pm
I really want to go home at this point but I might as well stay until the official closing time. I made it this far and I’m only thirteen minutes away from completing the entire market day.

1:58 pm
I can’t see a single person who looks like they are still shopping. I unlock my bike.

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Until next Saturday, Farewell Market.

1:59 pm
Gaby tells me, “You only have one more minute!” I compliment her for putting on such a great market.

2:00 pm
I’m out of the market and riding home on my bike.

2:15 pm
I lay down in my bed, ready to surrender consciousness to a sweet, sweet nap.

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This little guy also had a great day at the market!

 

*Note: I realize that 2:00 pm is not “dusk” and therefore my blog’s title is inaccurate. But “Dawn to dusk” sounds so much better than “Dawn to mid-afternoon” so I took an artistic liberty. Deal with it.

 

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